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The Other Side of Everest: Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm (1999)

por Matt Dickinson

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It seemed like any other season on Everest. Ten expeditions from around the world were preparing for their summit push, gathered to-gether to try for mountaineering's ultimate prize. Twenty-four hours later, eight of those climbers were dead, victims of the most devastating storm ever to hit Everest. On the North face of the mountain, a British expedition found itself in the thick of the drama. Against all odds, film-maker Matt Dickinson and professional climber Alan Hinkes managed to battle through hurricane-force winds to reach the summit. In Death Zone, Matt Dickinson describes the extraordinary event that put the disaster on the front cover of Time and Newsweek. The desperate attempts of teams on the southern side of the mountain. . . fatal errors that led to the deaths of three Indian climbers on the North Ridge. . . and the moving story of Rob Hall, the New Zealand guide who stayed with his stricken client, and paid with his life. Based on interviews with the surviving climbers and the first-hand experience of having lived through the killer storm, this book tackles issues at the very heart of mountaineering. Death Zone is an extra-ordinary story of human triumph, folly and disaster.… (más)
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This is another book about the terrible storm and lost lives on Mt. Everest, in May 1996. However, Dickinson was on the North Face, the Tibet side. This side of the mountain is said to be more difficult due to the cold, landscape and winds.

Dickinson was a film maker and part of an expedition that included Brian Blessed, a British entertainment personality. Dickinson's assignment was to film Blessed as he attempted to conquer Everest. Dickinson never intended to go for the summit. He hired a more qualified climber and film maker to join the expedition. Dickinson did, however, catch "summit-fever" and joined the final push to the top.

I have read better mountaineering stories, however this one still kept me entertained. Although it took nearly 100 pages of lead-in to get to the meat of the story. Once there, it was a gripping tale, but I don't think there was enough there for a book, even one this short. Dickinson includes events that occurred on the south side of Everest to fill in where his experience left off.

I am not sure why I read anything I can find on mountaineering and Everest. I suppose it is because I know it is something I will never experience. Also, I love the photo's that are usually included in the book. This one does have some awesome shots.

I am going to be on a mountaineering kick for awhile. I found a pile of books I had forgotten about and now I have "summit-fever" too. ( )
  JBroda | Sep 24, 2021 |
An interesting read and an interesting counter to 'Into Thin Air'. Dickinson was with a British team on the north side of Everest on the 10th May 1996 when the huge storm which was to leave 8 climbers dead with many others fighting for their lives. In the aftermath of the storm Dickinson, Alan Hinckes, Lhapka, Mingma and Gyaltsen eventually summited on the 19th May 1996 but it is Dickinson's thoughtful reaction to the costs of being above 8,000 meters (they passed the bodies of the three Indian climbers who perished in the storm and were leaving Camp Six at the moment that an Austrian climber died at the camp from Oedema) and how this impacts a person's judgement and morality which makes this an interesting read. ( )
1 vota riverwillow | Apr 20, 2009 |
I read this after Krakauer (Into Thin Air) and Boukreev's (The Climb) stories, and found it every bit as gripping. Must admit to having become a fanatical armchair Everesteer, and it has to be a pretty bad book to not hold my interest (Lene Gammelgard manages though!) And, yes, it is called 'The Death Zone' in the English and Australian editions at least. ( )
  saliero | Jun 25, 2007 |
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A filmmaker describes his experiences on an Everest expedition during the devastating storm of 1996 that claimed eight lives, offering a personal view of the challenges, rewards, and risks of mountaineering in the world's high places.
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Feeling more dead than alive, I staggered the final few steps into Advance Base Camp just as darkness swept across the Tibetan Plateau and chased the last glimmer of light out of the Himalayas. It was 6:35pm on May 20, 1996.
Preface

There are two lists that are meticulously compiled by Everest observers. The list of those who reach the top. And the list of those who die.
Introduction

Just before 4:00pm on May 10, 1996, Audrey Salkeld, an Everest historian and researcher, was typing one of her two daily Internet reports into an Apple Mac notebook in a tent at Everest Base Camp when the bitter chill of the afternoon set in.
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The Death Zone is a place where the mind wanders into strange and dark corners, where insanity and illusions are ever-present traps, and where the corpses of far stronger warriors than you will ever be, lie in the screaming wind with their skulls gaping from the ripped remains of their battle dress.
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It seemed like any other season on Everest. Ten expeditions from around the world were preparing for their summit push, gathered to-gether to try for mountaineering's ultimate prize. Twenty-four hours later, eight of those climbers were dead, victims of the most devastating storm ever to hit Everest. On the North face of the mountain, a British expedition found itself in the thick of the drama. Against all odds, film-maker Matt Dickinson and professional climber Alan Hinkes managed to battle through hurricane-force winds to reach the summit. In Death Zone, Matt Dickinson describes the extraordinary event that put the disaster on the front cover of Time and Newsweek. The desperate attempts of teams on the southern side of the mountain. . . fatal errors that led to the deaths of three Indian climbers on the North Ridge. . . and the moving story of Rob Hall, the New Zealand guide who stayed with his stricken client, and paid with his life. Based on interviews with the surviving climbers and the first-hand experience of having lived through the killer storm, this book tackles issues at the very heart of mountaineering. Death Zone is an extra-ordinary story of human triumph, folly and disaster.

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