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Clothing the Clergy: Virtue and Power in Medieval Europe, c. 800-1200

por Maureen C. Miller

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After initial ambivalence about distinctive garb for its ministers, early Christianity developed both liturgical garments and visible markers of clerical status outside church. From the ninth century, moreover, new converts to the faith beyond the Alps developed a highly ornate style of liturgical attire; church vestments were made of precious silks and decorated with embroidered and woven ornament, often incorporating gold and jewels. Making use of surviving medieval textiles and garments; mosaics, frescoes, and manuscript illuminations; canon law; liturgical sources; literary works; hagiography; theological tracts; chronicles, letters, inventories of ecclesiastical treasuries, and wills, Maureen C. Miller in Clothing the Clergy traces the ways in which clerical garb changed over the Middle Ages.Miller's in-depth study of the material culture of church vestments not only goes into detail about craft, artistry, and textiles but also contributes in groundbreaking ways to our understanding of the religious, social, and political meanings of clothing, past and present. As a language of power, clerical clothing was used extensively by eleventh-century reformers to mark hierarchies, to cultivate female patrons, and to make radical new claims for the status of the clergy. The medieval clerical culture of clothing had enduring significance: its cultivation continued within Catholicism and even some Protestant denominations and it influenced the visual communication of respectability and power in the modern Western world. Clothing the Clergy features seventy-nine illustrations, including forty color photographs that put the rich variety of church vestments on display.… (más)
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Beautifully researched and illustrated, Maureen Miller's ambitious latest book traces the changes in clerical garb between the ninth and twelfth centuries in Latin Christendom. This might seem a rather esoteric subject matter, but through the use of art historical evidence, narrative and theological writings, conciliar legislation, and even surviving pieces of clothing, Miller makes a strong case for vestments as very visual representations of the burgeoning clerical reform movement. She really shines at taking a particular cope or textual excerpt and situating them in their broader historical contexts.

I also appreciated her consideration of the role of women in making and embroidering these clothes, though I'm not sure that I would be quite so positive as her in claiming that women's textile work could shape clerical piety. I mean, we don't know—will almost certainly never know—to what extent this embroidery was made according to the women's own design, but my suspicion would be that they're often working according to an external commission, particularly enslaved women. This is, of course, one of those quibbles that comes down to gut feeling more than anything else, and this is a really wonderful work. I'm quite certain that it will be the go-to for anyone working on medieval Christian liturgical vestments. ( )
  siriaeve | Apr 16, 2016 |
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After initial ambivalence about distinctive garb for its ministers, early Christianity developed both liturgical garments and visible markers of clerical status outside church. From the ninth century, moreover, new converts to the faith beyond the Alps developed a highly ornate style of liturgical attire; church vestments were made of precious silks and decorated with embroidered and woven ornament, often incorporating gold and jewels. Making use of surviving medieval textiles and garments; mosaics, frescoes, and manuscript illuminations; canon law; liturgical sources; literary works; hagiography; theological tracts; chronicles, letters, inventories of ecclesiastical treasuries, and wills, Maureen C. Miller in Clothing the Clergy traces the ways in which clerical garb changed over the Middle Ages.Miller's in-depth study of the material culture of church vestments not only goes into detail about craft, artistry, and textiles but also contributes in groundbreaking ways to our understanding of the religious, social, and political meanings of clothing, past and present. As a language of power, clerical clothing was used extensively by eleventh-century reformers to mark hierarchies, to cultivate female patrons, and to make radical new claims for the status of the clergy. The medieval clerical culture of clothing had enduring significance: its cultivation continued within Catholicism and even some Protestant denominations and it influenced the visual communication of respectability and power in the modern Western world. Clothing the Clergy features seventy-nine illustrations, including forty color photographs that put the rich variety of church vestments on display.

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