“So what’s it all about? Why do climbers climb, why did I do it, what does it mean? Somehow I no longer want to talk or think about it. I’d begun climbing eager to analyse my companions, myself and climbing; now I’m reluctant to draw any conclusions at all. There is no clear answer to these questions, and even if there were it would not be very important. It is in the experience itself that the value lies.“

Andrew Greig is a Scottish writer who was asked, in 1984, by climber Malcolm Duff, to document his expedition’s attempt to summit Mustagh Tower in the Karakoram Himalayas in northern Pakistan. The author never expected to undertake such a daunting task, but Duff helped him prepare and taught him the basics beforehand. This book takes the reader along for the entire trip, starting with the preparations and logistics. It recounts the various obstacles and challenges all along the way, including both the downtime and the actual climbing.

Greig documents the interpersonal dynamics, physical and mental challenges of climbing, landscapes, and people living in the region. It differs from many books I have read, which are more focused on the actual climb once all the preliminaries are completed. I always seem to enjoy these narratives, since it allows me to experience an expedition without, you know, risking life and limb.

“Above 20,000 feet one does not recharge, can eat little and usually sleep less, in conditions of great discomfort. And then the next day get up and do it all over again. It is this combination of absolute mental and physical demands that makes mountaineering the total experience. That makes it so addictive.”
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First published in 1985. When poet and novelist Andrew Greig was invited by the near-legendary Mal Duff to join his ascent of the Mustagh Tower in the Karakoram Himalayas, he had a poor head for heights and no climbing experience whatsoever. The result is this unique book.
Short-listed for the Boardman-Tasker Prize (for mountaineering books) and something of a classic in adventure literature, "Summit Fever" has been loved by climbers and literary critics alike for its refreshing candour, wit and insight, and the haunting beauty of its writing.
This edition includes a forward by climber Joe Simpson, written in 1997 shortly after the death of Mal Duff at Everest that season.
Highly recommended for climbers and armchair enthusiasts, and fans of Andrew Greig's novels and poetry. ( )