Damaged cover repair/mitigation

Question for you smart folks:

I was recently given an old hardcover edition of Rip Van Winkle, and the shipper sent it in one of those plastic envelopes with no padding at all. It was clearly bashed during shipping and a decent sized chunk 'crumbled' at the top of the front cover. It didn't break off or anything, but you can feel that it is crumbly under the cover material.

The question is: it feels like that part of the cover is now compromised and might get worse. What's the best way to contain the damage?

Can you post an image of the damage? It would help to diagnose/recommend a fix if we can see it.

>2 lilithcat: Thanks, here goes. Note this book wasn't sold as good condition or anything nor is it valuable, I'm just interested in containing the damage if possible.

I would use white glue and wrap it in waxed paper in order to mold it back into place. The waxed paper will peal off after the glue sets.

>1 Karlstar: the kind of plastic bag packing sounds like a megaseller like Thrift Books. If so, they are not book people. They only sell books as if they were hardware fasteners by the count or the pound. They take little effort to provide the exact item pictured (stock photos are common) and no care at all to pack for safe delivery. It is always the sender's responsibility to pack well for safe arrival. Did they compensate you for the damage?

James

>5 Keeline: hi, it was a gift and due to the nature of the situation we weren't comfortable asking them to pursue a refund. I'm just trying to keep the damage to a minimum so the book is readable and doesn't get worse.

I've had similar 'bait and switch' experiences with them.

>4 2wonderY: I would suggest parchment paper which will provide the same function but without the risk of leaving any residue of wax.

>5 Keeline: I disagree partially. While ThriftBooks do ship a lot of their inventory in flimsy unpadded plastic mailers, they use significantly better packing (padded mailers, additional plastic covers and thick cardboard) for signed and limited editions. Look for these lines in the item description: 'Sealed in plastic for shipping. Secure packaging for safe delivery.' This category of books are usually listed with multiple photos of the book and state: 'Actual Product Photo'. At least, this has been my experience in purchasing from them over the years.

Thanks folks, I figured that short of something drastic like completely replacing the cover (is that even possible) that there would not be much that can be done. It wasn't an expensive book to begin with.

I've wrapped many a book in waxed paper under light pressure w/o any transfer of wax to the book. Parchment paper has the potential drawback of getting glued to the book if there is any glue leakage. I also use waxed paper when attaching a case to a text block, as well as between the endsheets when pasting those. Always under light pressure, enough to prevent warping, etc.

>9 Glacierman: Parchment paper has the potential drawback of getting glued to the book if there is any glue leakage.

Parchment paper is non-stick and grease resistant among other things.

>10 mr.philistine: Oh! Baking parchment. Different beast. Should work, though I've never used it in bindery work.

>11 Glacierman: I love it that your first thought was parchment!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parchment

The key with waxed paper is to leave it in place long enough but not too long so it sticks to the glue.

In a group like this parchment for books is a natural first thought. Baking parchment might never occur to many without it being spelled out.

I’ve seen cooking paper for lumpia and now wonder if it has the same properties.

James

>12 2wonderY: Umm, no. Actually I was thinking of parchment paper, but not baking parchment. The one is not equivalent to the other, but I can see where you would think I was thinking of the animal product. Makes sense. I should have clarified things. Sorry.

>13 Keeline: I have used baking parchment for things other than baking, but never in bookbinding. Just never thought of that application. For binding, I've used either waxed paper or silicone release paper, usually the former because it is easily obtained locally, is cheap, and works well...if you don't, as you say, leave it too long.