What to see and do if you can't stay long· Great places to stay, from spa retreats on the Danube to cozy guest houses· Snug wine taverns, refined pastry shops, and restaurants of Hapsburg splendor· Entertaining walking tours of the hills of Buda and the boulevards of Pest, past Roman ruins, Renaissance churches, fin de siècle facades, and communist monuments· Luxurious thermal baths, lively jazz clubs, Gypsy folk dancing· Great shopping---from Transylvanian folk art to Zsolnay porcelain, plus insider's tips on the bustling flea market· Special feature--maps pinpointing the exact locations of hotels, restaurants, and sights