Alejandro Ruiz (1)

Do I want to eat the recipes in The Food of Oaxaca? Yes. Will I ever make the recipes in The Food of Oaxaca? That's not likely. This is a wonderful book that takes its topic seriously and doesn't cut corners, which means you'll need to hunt down ingredients and be willing to put in time to the recipes it offers. Given that, I think The Foods of Oaxaca would most appeal to readers who

a) love reading cook books and learning about new cuisines, but who don't actually do a lot of cooking
b) are accomplished cooks looking to challenge themselves
c) already love the foods of Oaxaca and are willing to do whatever it takes to learn to cook it themselves.

This detailed, challenging portrait of one of Mexico's best regional cuisines is lavishly illustrated and a pleasure to page through. If you fit into one of the three categories above, you'll want to check it out.

I received a free electronic review copy of this book from the publisher via NetGalley; the opinions are my own.… (más)

While I will probably never make the recipes in this book, partly because ingredients like fried grasshoppers and the herb chepil, chef Ruiz has given me a wonderful reminder of why I love Oaxacan food so well. He begins with the foods made by his family during childhood like tortillas tamales, then moves into the seafood dishes of the Oaxacan coast and finally on to recipes from his restaurant. Accompanying the recipes are essays which bring a cultural context to the food, like cacao which is used in mole and chocolate.… (más)

It is tempting to think of The Food of Oaxaca as just another cookbook, but that would be highly misleading. Certainly, Chef Alejandro Ruiz has packed the volume with instructions for a multitude of the most familiar dishes from the region, as well as ones that undoubtedly will be new to many readers. However, where the book really shines is in all of the thoughtful and informative material that accompanies the recipes, including the stunning photographs of the people, places, and food of Oaxaca and the many personal essays that provide a context for the real purpose of the project.

The essays, in particular, are what elevate this entire book. There are about a dozen and half short pieces in all, covering topics such as the millennia-long history of Oaxacan cuisine, the connection the people of the region have with the land and the food, the chef’s personal life journey, the tools necessary to prepare traditional meals, and profiles of some of Ruiz’ colleagues in the industry and places he loves to eat. These are all tender and deeply felt portraits of the myriad aspects that make this part of Mexico such a renown gastronomic destination. He is clearly inspired by his surroundings and it evident throughout the book how passionate and proud he is to bring a broader knowledge of his home and his craft to light.

While the recipes cover a wide range of items—chiles and vegetables, beans and potatoes, seafood, meat and fowl—it is stressed repeatedly how instrumental corn is to everything. The book is organized into three parts: dishes dating to the origin of the region, those specific to the coastal area, and those that Ruiz serves at his own restaurant in Oaxaca City. All of the recipes look delicious—my wife and I are big fans of this cuisine—but it should be noted that quite a few of them may be difficult to execute properly due to the limited availability of some of the recommended ingredients. For instance, when we made a few of the masa-based and mole dishes, we had to substitute some of the prescribed grains, chiles, and cooking implements, which undoubtedly altered the flavors in ways we might never know. Still, The Food of Oaxaca is a wonderful book that we will read and use for years to come.… (más)