Sanmao (1943–1991)

The author was born as Chen Mao-ping (陳懋平) in China, then grew up in Taiwan. She took on the pen-name Sanmao and was also known in English as Echo Chan, after the nymph in Greek mythology. Sanmao moved to Western Sahara in the early 1970s (the Spanish Sahara at the time). Although her partner José Quero had tried to talk her out of it, when he saw she was determined to go, arranged himself a job there. Sanmao and José spent several years living in El Aaiún (Laâyoune), the capital. Sandal wrote about her experiences and published her stories as a serial in the Taiwanese United Daily News.

Sanmao is an engaging character with a fresh sense of humour, a natural curiosity, a fascination with life and a fiercely independent adventurous approach to life. She refuses to conform to expectations placed on her as a woman, which gets her both into and out of many unexpected situations. Although her writing about her Sahrawi neighbours at times has a condescending tone, she seems to genuinely love and esteem them. She is confronted with customs she finds shocking such as child brides and modern slavery, and she makes frequent complains about lack of personal hygiene, but overall she is positive and enjoys learning and interacting.

Towards the end of Sanmao’s stay in Western Sahara there is a push for independence and in 1975 the Spanish agree to withdraw. Morocco and Mauritania are immediately poised to fill the power void and there is a guerilla uprising. Sanmao and José become caught up in this and meet the guerilla leader.

I found this an interesting read by a quirky and entertaining narrator.… (más)

I raced through this book: a page-turning account written in 1976 by a Taiwanese/Chinese woman married to a Spaniard who realised her dream of living for a while in the Sahara Desert: which was in the 1970s still a Spanish protectorate. Sanmao is infectiously enthusiastic, curious, not to say nosy about the Sahwari people among whom she lived, and tells us much about everyday life and culture, and the reality of living in a climate which is in the course of a single day searingly hot and brain-numbingly cold. All this was interesting, but I couldn't warm to Sanmao, whom I found judgmental, even racist, and impetuous to the point of foolhardiness: whether it was opening her mouth without thinking, or driving endless miles in the - deserted - desert with no particular aim. Nevertheless, since I'm unlikely to get to the Sahara, this was an illuminating and immersive account of what life was - and I suspect still is - like there.… (más)

A Taiwanese woman traveling through the Sahara? I thought this had the makings of a fascinating travelogue. Well, not quite. Though the author did take such a trip (not alone, but with a Spanish husband) and doubtless had experiences more or less related to the stories, many are written in a too cute, comic book style in which the narrator represents herself as a kind of female Arabian Nights Sinbad cleverly outsmarting djinns and natives at every turn. I would have preferred a bit less of the author's overweening charm and more engagement with the desert and its people, through her eyes, to be sure, but on their terms.… (más)

It lacked the variety of stories that I expected. Still, it is the first book I've read about Western Sahara, and I'm interested to learn more.

> ‘Gueiga, let me ask you. Can you go around to all the neighboring women and ask what, besides my toothbrush and husband, you’re not interested in borrowing?’ She seemed to wake from a dream, hearing this. ‘What does your toothbrush look like?’ she asked immediately. ‘Get out,’ I cried in agitation. ‘Get out.’ Gueiga kept speaking as she stepped backwards. ‘I just want to look at your toothbrush. I do not want your husband. Really—’

> The crowd stepped aside as the Jeep began to go. The silhouette of the mute slave gradually disappeared into the sunset. His family members didn’t cry or scream. They held each other in a tight embrace, shrinking into the big red blanket like three stones formed in a sandstorm.… (más)