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Poor Man's Provence: Finding Myself in Cajun Louisiana

por Rheta Grimsley Johnson

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For over a decade, syndicated columnist Rheta Grimsley Johnson has been spending several months a year in Southwest Louisiana, deep in the heart of Cajun Country. Unlike many other writers who have parachuted into the swampy paradise for a few days or weeks, Rheta fell in love with the place, bought a second home and set in planting doomed azaleas and deep roots. She has found an assortment of beautiful people in a homely little town called Henderson, right on the edge of the Atchafalaya Swamp.These days, much is labeled Cajun that is not, and the popularity of the unique culture_s food, songs and dance has been a mixed blessing. The revival of French Louisiana_s traditional music and cuisine often has been cheapened by counterfeits. Confused pilgrims sometimes look to New Orleans for a sampler platter of all things Cajun. Close, but no cigar.Poor Man_s Provence helps define what_s what through lively characters and stories. The book is both personal odyssey and good reporting, travelogue and memoir, funny and frank. This beguiling place is as exotic as it gets without a passport. The author shares what keeps her coming home to French Louisiana.And as NPR commentator Bailey White observes in her foreword, "Both Rheta's readers and the people she writes about will be comfortable, well fed, highly entertained, and happy they came to Poor Man's Provence."… (más)
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Living in Luke, Mississippi, Rheta, a retired newspaper journalist for the liberal paper "The Atlanta Journal Constitution", and Don, a retired journalism professor at the University of Alabama, now avid duck hunter, purchased a getaway houseboat, the Green Queen, in the Basin Landing Marina on Henderson Lake, and later a cottage, in Henderson, Louisiana, where they would spend the next 10 years for Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays.

Her writing was just so-so, maybe because it was a bit shallow, or maybe even a little self-serving, or maybe I'm just a little bit jealous. I'm a Cajun and a direct descendant of Daniel LeBlanc and the infamous Joseph Broussard. My family migrated over here to SE Texas from SW Louisiana (just 10 minutes from the border) and she has experienced more in Louisiana, land of MY ancestors, than I ever have...and she's an outsider.

This book is short-takes and snippets of a few of her experiences. I can connect to one story when Rheta was getting her haircut, she asked the girl if she was from the area, really assuming she was because she had that heavy Cajun accent, but the girl replied, "Oh no! I'm from St. Martinville, me."...which was only about 10 miles up the road. Too funny!

Here, where I live, we say anyone above I-10 is up north...that's only about 5 minutes from my house. And one of my daughters moved all the way to Vidor, Texas. I hardly ever get to see her or my grandsons any more, at least not like I used to. But really, Vidor is only about a 15 minute drive...lolol. Cajuns really don't travel well. We love home.

And then, the author just had to go there. Politics (p. 188): Since she brought it up, I have a right to voice my opinion as well. The author obviously does not know political history when it comes to blacks and racism. It was the Democrats who have always held the blacks back. They WERE the Klu-Klux-Klan! It was the Republicans who fought for equal rights, even the right to vote. Today, it is still the Democrats who continue to dumb down by offering free this and free that. Keep them down and desperate and begging. It's all about power. She says that nothing has changed much in the Deep South, except now haters wear navy blue blazers instead of white sheets and have morphed into Young Republicans. Meanwhile, she's at St. Martinville's Evangeline park watching a marriage take place between a black man and a white woman. There doesn't seem to be a problem to me.

What's ironic is the fact that we don't see all the hate riots and destruction of property and businesses that we see and hear about on the news. All that takes place up north in those dilapidated liberal cities. Sure! There's still racism today, but it streams both ways. We just don't see it here like the lib-tards would like for us to see it. They want nothing more than to keep the hate going and racism alive.

The best you can get out of this memoir are restaurants to check out if ever travelling in the vicinity of Henderson, Louisiana. Unfortunately, Mulate’s in Breaux Bridge is no longer open. We ate there a few years back before it was sold and renamed. I’m not sure exactly when they closed, but it is now 2019…they are closed down. Mulate’s had a good run for 58 years, opened in 1953, before selling out in 2011 and renamed “Pont Breaux’s”.

• Chicken on the Bayou in Breaux Bridge, she swears they serve up the best poboys around.
• Poche's Meat Market in Breaux Bridge serves buffet lunch line, highly recommended.
• LeJeune's Bakery in Jeanerette still bakes the best fresh French bread from a 113 year old recipe.

BOOKS MENTIONED:
• Helene Boudreaux singer and writer, wrote memoir "Cajun Survivor". (p. 48)
• Greg Guirard's "Pyscotherapy for Cajuns"

FESTIVALS:
Louisiana publishes a large volume of all festivals held in Louisiana throughout the year. Look into this. There's a Duck Festival in Gueydan, Frog Festival in Rayne, Crawfish Festival in Breaux Bridge...and pretty much every where else, and Bastille Day celebration in Kaplan...just to name a few.

CAJUN'S FAV CARD GAME:
Learn to play the popular card game called "bourre".

NEVER KNEW:
Never purchase bagged cypress chips for lawns which come from deforested cypress swamp forests. They clear-cut to make these chips and there aren't many of these cypress forests left.

POEM BY ROBERT SERVICE (p. 173): Brought tears to my eyes. It reminded me of our dog Scottie who got hit by a truck and flew into the ditch in front of the house. I ran to see and he painfully crawled out of the ditch to me and laid by my feet as the driver put his hand on his head and softly said his name, Scottie, and shot him to put him out of his misery. I had to bury him alone because my husband was working that evening. I'm just going to put that poem right here. It's a tender reminder of just how faithful dogs really are. Their love is so unconditional.

"One pearly day in early May I walked upon the sand
And saw, say half a mile away, a man with gun in hand.
A dog was cowering to his will as slow he sought to creep
Upon a dozen ducks so still they seemed to be asleep.
When like a streak the dog dashed out, the ducks flashed up in flight,
The fellow gave a savage shout and cursed with all his might.
Then as I stood somewhat amazed and gazed with eyes agog,
With bitter rage his gun he raised and blazed and shot the dog.
You know how dogs can yelp with pain; its blood soaked in the sand,
And yet it crawled to him again, and tried to lick his hand.
“Forgive me Lord for what I’ve done,” it seemed as if it said.
But once again he raised his gun – this time he shot it dead.
What could I do? What could I say? ‘Twas such a lonely place.
Tongue-tied I watched him stride away, I never saw his face.
I should have bawled the bastard out, a yellow dog he slew.
But worse, he proved beyond a doubt that – I was yellow too." ( )
  MissysBookshelf | Aug 27, 2023 |
One Book One Community selection for summer 2009 ( )
  annodoom | Oct 7, 2009 |
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For over a decade, syndicated columnist Rheta Grimsley Johnson has been spending several months a year in Southwest Louisiana, deep in the heart of Cajun Country. Unlike many other writers who have parachuted into the swampy paradise for a few days or weeks, Rheta fell in love with the place, bought a second home and set in planting doomed azaleas and deep roots. She has found an assortment of beautiful people in a homely little town called Henderson, right on the edge of the Atchafalaya Swamp.These days, much is labeled Cajun that is not, and the popularity of the unique culture_s food, songs and dance has been a mixed blessing. The revival of French Louisiana_s traditional music and cuisine often has been cheapened by counterfeits. Confused pilgrims sometimes look to New Orleans for a sampler platter of all things Cajun. Close, but no cigar.Poor Man_s Provence helps define what_s what through lively characters and stories. The book is both personal odyssey and good reporting, travelogue and memoir, funny and frank. This beguiling place is as exotic as it gets without a passport. The author shares what keeps her coming home to French Louisiana.And as NPR commentator Bailey White observes in her foreword, "Both Rheta's readers and the people she writes about will be comfortable, well fed, highly entertained, and happy they came to Poor Man's Provence."

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