Really enjoyed, maybe a good one for Ben? Made me think what has happened to my life. ( )

A gorgeous and lyrical coming-of-age novel.

Pikelet and his companions push themselves to the limit of physical and mental strength and focus, surfing the wave between dark oblivion and the sublime -- both in their personal and vocational lives. I found this book beautiful, erotic, disturbing, and tender. ( )

Such musical language to describe surfing, youthful views of the world and life's struggles. ( )

By an Australian author, this book surprised me. In the first chapter I thought it was setting up to be a mystery of some sort. But, no. Immediately the story turns to the adolescence of the main character and how events and people from then affected him as an adult. It's about a loner who finds excitement and fear in surfing, idolizes the wrong people and ultimately how those circumstances affect him. Well written, engaging and written with a true voice, I enjoyed this book. ( )

Meandering story that doesn't go anywhere in particular. ( )