This is an overlooked monograph that offers much to weavers interested in creating some of the couture fabrics of the past.

There are 44 drafts (some are duplicates that use a different number of shafts or a different treadling sequence). All of the drafts describe cloths that have a base cloth with surface interest threads that float above the backing. Many are thick textiles and most use wool in warp and weft. These fabrics were originally designed and woven in small, custom design mills in Northern England and along the Tweed and other rivers in the Scottish Lowland.

Most of the drafts and designs in this monograph use a finer thread for the base cloth and a decorative, heavier threads for the surface interest.

Harriet gives advice on the suitability of various yarns, sett and sleying instructions, warping, finishing and the advantages of sampling to determine each of these variables.

The Reno Fiber Guild is lucky in that this monograph was the object of a study group in 2000-2001. There is binder in the guild library with many different samples. ( )