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Cargando... The Coat Route: Craft, Luxury, & Obsession on the Trail of a $50,000 Coatpor Meg Lukens Noonan
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Inscríbete en LibraryThing para averiguar si este libro te gustará. Actualmente no hay Conversaciones sobre este libro. Meg Lukens Noonan wrote The Coat Route after reading of an overcoat made by Sydney tailor John Cutler for $50,000. The book is a loving description of the fine materials and expert labour that went into creating this unique garment. Noonan tells us the stories behind the vicuna wool, the fabric, the silk, the horn buttons and the other elements of the coat's construction. Along the way she gives us potted histories of Savile Row, the Andean vicuna industry, the Yorkshire mill towns, button manufacture and Italian designer fashion. We meet some larger-than-life characters, but we are never too far from the realisation that all of this history is at risk of soon being swept away by the tide of mass manufacturing in the modern world. The Coat Route is a delightful and interesting read, with an elegiac tinge of sadness to it. ( ) One of my favorites. The story of the coat grabbed me from the beginning and her attention to detail in the telling was wonderful for anyone who understands the construction of a garment from concept through completion. Highly recommend to anyone who enjoys tailoring, sewing or fashion or who simply has an appreciation for quality workmanship in any field. The author takes us into the fading world of bespoke tailored clothing. She enters this world through curiosity from a news item about a 50K coat. Having no background in textiles, tailoring, or fashion she thoroughly researches each element of a particular vicuna overcoat tailored to the individual's specification. This is the world of bespoke. The story introduces us to a specific Australian tailor, J.H. Cutler, as well as the general group of tailors on Saville Row in London. From there the author takes us to the Andes to learn about the vicuna, a rare fiber from and endangered species. Similar research goes into the lining fabric and the buttons for this very special coat. Through out the book, the author shares the deep appreciation she gains for the the craftsmanship, quality and attention to detail that is quickly being lost to fast fashion and cheap labor. Finally at the end of the book, we are introduced to the consumers of bespoke clothing. An interesting group of privileged gentleman who have specific tastes and needs relative to clothing. This book was fascinating to me as a weaver, spinner, and sewer. At first I was skeptical that the author could take on the topic in depth, but she has done a great job with her research in understanding the nuances of the topic she has undertaken. The Coat Route, traces from idea to vicuna to button to wearer the entire fabrication of a marvelous man's overcoat. Noonan's prose style is thoroughly engaging; at once full of information and allowing quiet reflection on the beauty of craftsmanship and heartbreak of dying artisanry. A gorgeous work, it hits the interest of non-fiction readers with beautiful writing and a moving plot for fiction lovers. I've already started recommending this book to everyone around me. sin reseñas | añadir una reseña
In today's world of fast fashion, is there a place for a handcrafted $50,000 coat? To answer that question, Meg Noonan unravels the story of the coat's provenance. Her journey takes readers to the Sydney studio of John Cutler, a fourth-generation tailor who works magic with scissors and thread; to the remote mountains of Peru, where villagers shear vicunas (a rare animal known for its soft fleece); to the fabulous Florence headquarters of Stefano Ricci, the world's greatest silk designer; to the esteemed French textile company Dormeuil; to the English button factory that makes products out of Indian buffalo horn; and to the workshop of the engraver who made the 18-carat gold plaque that sits inside the collar. These individual artisans and family-owned companies are part of the rich tapestry of bespoke tailoring, which began in 17th-century London. They have stood against the tide of mass consumerism, but their dedication to their craft is about more than maintaining tradition; they have found increasing reason to believe that their way is best -- for customers, for the environment, and for the workers involved. Fascinating, surprising, and entertaining, The Coat Routeis a timely love song to things of lasting value in our disposable culture. No se han encontrado descripciones de biblioteca. |
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