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Ghost Train to the Eastern Star: On the Tracks of the Great Railway Bazaar (2008)

por Paul Theroux

MiembrosReseñasPopularidadValoración promediaMenciones
1,0523319,263 (4.07)57
In Ghost Train to the Eastern Star, Theroux recreates an epic journey he took thirty years ago, a giant loop by train (mostly) through Eastern Europe, Turkey, the Caucasus, Central Asia, the Indian Subcontinent, China, Japan, and Siberia. In short, he traverses all of Asia top to bottom, and end to end. In the three decades since he first travelled this route, Asia has undergone phenomenal change. The Soviet Union has collapsed, China has risen, India booms, Burma slowly smothers, and Vietnam prospers despite the havoc unleashed upon it the last time Theroux passed through. He witnesses all this and more in a 25,000 mile journey, travelling as the locals do, by train, car, bus, and foot, providing his penetrating observations on the changes these countries have undergone.--From publisher description.… (más)
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Mostrando 1-5 de 33 (siguiente | mostrar todos)
I’m a big fan. Theroux has razor sharp powers of observation and a razor sharp wit that can cut right to the heart of a matter. ( )
  BBrookes | Nov 29, 2023 |
Theroux first made this journey in 1973, thirty-three years earlier. He was eager to make comparisons as he followed the old travel itinerary of The Great Railway Bazaar (with a few exceptions like skirting Iran and Pakistan and being able to enter Cambodia as it was no longer controlled by the Khmer Rouge, for examples).
Retracing his own steps affords Theroux the ability to look up hotels he previously visited and people he met thirty-three years ago. He is pleasantly surprised when they remember him and dismayed to learn others thought him a pompous jerk on his first visit.
In addition to writing about a journey, readers get a glimpse of Theroux's personality. I found it curious that he doesn't like people eating and walking at the same time (no street fairs for him). By 2006 he hasn't wanted to learn the lesson of his first marriage - it is self-indulgent to travel for four months, leaving a wife and/or family behind. The family sees this extravagance as abandonment. (Although the second wife was wiser thanks to technology. She demanded Theroux take a smart phone.) My favorite part of Ghost Train was Theroux's conversation with Haruki Murakami about his first marriage. It felt like an honest, soul-exposing confession. The real Theroux came out, author to author.
Theroux also gauges a country's cultural acceptance by their use of pornography. As the book goes on, Theroux's running commentary on the varying sex trades increases.
In terms of idioms, I felt Theroux was overly negative in his descriptions of towns: acid, broken, beleaguered, cruel, crummy, crumbling, dirty, dim, dark, derelict, dreary, dilapidated, disorder, desperate, decaying, fatigued, foul, filthy, gloomy, lifeless, muddy, miserable, melancholy, mournful, nightmare, neglected, poisonous, primitive, pockmarked, rust-stained, ramshackle, ragged, smoky, sticky, shadowy, stale, stink, stinky, sooty, tough, threadbare, unfriendly, ugly, wrecked, wasteland to name a few. But, as another aside, I love authors who use the word hinterland. Don't ask me why. I think it's a very romantic word. ( )
  SeriousGrace | Aug 1, 2023 |
Enjoyable, though less so than, say, Riding the Iron Rooster.

I must say, though, after reading a few of his books, Theroux seems *obsessed* with prostitutes. I may know a little more about the countries he passes through, but I am guaranteed to know what the prostitutes were like. Though he says he doesn't partake. That said, I wonder if he doth protest too much... ( )
  toddtyrtle | Dec 28, 2022 |
A book about travelling, where Paul Theroux wonders about travellers and particularly travel writers and he takes a journey that lasts months trying to follow in his own footsteps from the The Great Railway Bazaar. Because of changes in the world's conflicts he goes to different countries some of the time. He dwells on some countries more than others and is more outward looking in some places compared to others, or is able to be more outward looking. I don't always agree with Paul Theroux but he is always fascinating and his insights are always useful. He is human and owns up to many of his own failings as he travels. The places are fascinating. It is now over 15 years since he made the trip and things have changed yet again but for the moment in time glimpse at these countries and the people he meets this is a must read for anyone who loves to travel. ( )
  CarolKub | Dec 18, 2021 |
Starting to read this book gives you the same feeling of pleasurable anticipation as embarking on the journey yourself! The author retraces much of his travel by rail and road across Asia thirty years previously in the 1970s, with such fascinating and romantic-sounding regions like Central Asian 'stans', the Indian sub-continent and Sri Lanka, and Southeast Asia and Japan, and back by the trans-Siberian railway. Did he find the places much changed and modernised, or were they left behind in a time warp with everything faded like an old print? ( )
  Dilip-Kumar | Sep 9, 2020 |
Mostrando 1-5 de 33 (siguiente | mostrar todos)
It’s the kind of project that only a man secure in his own self-esteem could undertake: an auto-pilgrimage, a grand ­homme’s homage to, well, himself. But then Theroux has never been overburdened by modesty. Although he has claimed that a prerequisite of traveling responsibly is avoiding arrogance, his previous travelogues have all been pungent with self-regard. “Ghost Train” is no different.
añadido por John_Vaughan | editarNY Times, Robert Macfarlane (Jul 19, 2011)
 
He also keeps up a running argument with the books he reads along the way, to say nothing of his contemporaries (Chatwin never traveled alone, he harrumphs, and neither does bête noire Naipaul). Fans of Theroux will say that he hasn’t lost his touch; the more critical will say that he breaks no new ground. Either way, worth looking into.
añadido por John_Vaughan | editarKirkus
 
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That feeling about trains, for instance. Of course he had long outgrown the boyish glamour of the steam engine. yet there was something that had an appeal for him in trains, especially in night trains, which always put queer, vaguely improper notions into his head.

George Simeon

The Man Who Watched the Trains Go By
"I'd much rather go by train."

D.H. Lawrence

Lady Chatterley's Lover
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To Sheila, with love
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You think of travellers as bold, but our guilty secret is that travel is one of the laziest ways on earth of passing the time.
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I think most serious and omnivorous readers are alike - intense in their dedication to the word, quiet-minded, but relieved and eagerly talkative when they meet other readers and kindred spirits. If you have gotten this far in this book, you are just such a singular person.
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In Ghost Train to the Eastern Star, Theroux recreates an epic journey he took thirty years ago, a giant loop by train (mostly) through Eastern Europe, Turkey, the Caucasus, Central Asia, the Indian Subcontinent, China, Japan, and Siberia. In short, he traverses all of Asia top to bottom, and end to end. In the three decades since he first travelled this route, Asia has undergone phenomenal change. The Soviet Union has collapsed, China has risen, India booms, Burma slowly smothers, and Vietnam prospers despite the havoc unleashed upon it the last time Theroux passed through. He witnesses all this and more in a 25,000 mile journey, travelling as the locals do, by train, car, bus, and foot, providing his penetrating observations on the changes these countries have undergone.--From publisher description.

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