I haven’t been to Las Vegas since the late-1990s -- during the city’s experiment in “family friendly,” which felt more “meh” than memorable. But lately the idea of going back keeps popping up, so I was interested to see this guidebook, and very interested to read in it that Las Vegas has dumped the pretense that it’s anything other than vice, excess and escape.

I usually consult several guides to a destination but have developed an overall preference for Frommer’s. More than just listings, their pages develop a narrative about the big picture, in a voice that’s direct and conversational vs. the more reserved, professional tone of Fodor’s. Regarding Las Vegas, that narrative is unapologetic, decadent escape, and the listings showcase the extravagance (and in most cases, the success) on all fronts -- food, lodging, casinos, shopping, clubs, shows and the sex and wedding industries. For visitors wanting to come up for air, there are also listings of cultural attractions and area side trips.

Each section begins with a “best of” the category and then detailed descriptions that are well organized (by location, then price) and nicely laid out on silky (almost glossy) pages. Hundreds of maps and color photos enhance the text, and dozens of sidebars pull out special info or slice large amounts of info in helpful ways, e.g. summary or comparison charts.

It's a great guide to navigating Las Vegas’s return to its true self, improved.

(Review based on a copy of the book provided by the publisher.) ( )