Joe Tasker (1948–1982)

Climbing Everest would be difficult enough, climbing it along the north-west ridge trickier, and climbing it without oxygen even harder. To attempt all of the above in winter seems like a form of torture. For Tasker and the rest of the team, however, it is about pushing their limits on a mountain that draws people to it like a moth to a flame. Tasker evokes this other world where few of us will ever venture: the Himalyas in winter.
Tasker was writing in 1981, an era before guided expeditions, where a budding Everest mountaineer would need to be experienced in order to be considered. Despite their combined experience, the team are besieged by illness and logistical problems, but they keep going far longer than I would have thought possible. Eventually the mountain wears them down. This is in no way a failing, as a conversation with a Sherpa demonstrates:

"Success?"
"No."
"Members all O.K.?"
"Yes."
"On Everest that is success!"

Reading it in 2011, Tasker's book is a poignant monument to human determination. Some may argue that it was a fruitless pursuit in the first place, but Tasker defends himself and his team well. While it doesn't make me want to follow in his footsteps, I certainly have a lot of respect for him.… (más)

Contains 4 complete books of climbing in the Himalaya in the 1970s.
Savage Arena by Joe Tasker
- accounts of various high-altitude summits and attempts
The Shining Mountain by Peter Boardman
- account of a 2-man ascent of Changabang, with Tasker.
Sacred Summits by Peter Boardman
- accounts of 3 ascents in New Guinea and the Himalaya
Everest the Cruel Way by Joe Tasker
- the 1980 British attempt on Everest by the West Ridge in winter.
Boardman and Tasker both died on Everest in 1982. Their names live on in the annual Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature.
Interesting reading, classic accounts of classic climbs.… (más)